Okay...I'm figuring out that I am a zoomer and because I am limited to the 18-200 or the 55-250 right now, I am constantly cropping in Aperture as I really like to fill the frame. ; I'm not sure if it's the cropping I'm doing, or the fact that I still just do not seem to be "getting it" when it comes to exposure, but these images are frustratingly less than stellar. I think that I am underexposed at times, over exposed at others, or just plain doing something else wrong. ; Can you guys help? ; Exif data is on Flickr. ; Of course, I ; know shooting through a window doesn't help but opening the window isn't an option as wildlife tends to run quickly away when you do that. ; I'm on the second floor looking over this scene and can't get the angle outside from the ground. I know they can be better, but I really need help. ; Here's a few. ; Sorry it's squirrels again. :-[ ; I have a yard full of oak trees they love and I'm dying to get some really good shots of them. ; Sometimes, I feel like I'm just trying too hard and overthinking it, and it's making my head hurt.
Funny. ; Yesterday Squirrel Nutkin and I got into an argument outside. Roni, are you shooting in Aperture priority mode? ; I'm seeing that all of these are at f/14, and 1/30 or 1/60 a sec aren't fast enough for that much of a telephoto (unless you're using the new 70-200 II model). ; Even with VR.
yes, roger is right. you are shooting in apeture mode at f14. I would switch to f8 or f5.6 to get faster shutter speeds. you are also at iso100, I would go up to 200 or 400 to get faster shutter speeds. Also, try matrix metering for these scenes over spot mode. you are probably getting exposures all over the place depending on where the meter picks up the light in the scene.
Yes, I'm shooting in Aperture priority mode. ; And honestly, I don't know why on earth I had it at f/14, as I've been trying to mostly leave it at f/8. ; Oh wait. ; Yes I do! ; I never changed it back after trying to get the sparkles on the water!! DUH! Lordy, guys. ; Please tell me it all comes more naturally with time and practice. ; Right now, honestly, I'm feeling like throwing the thing across the room, and somehow...that doesn't seem like the most productive idea I've ever had. :-[ Thank you so much for the suggestions. ; I simply was not understanding why the exposure seemed all over the place, but Craig...I got it now. ; Really appreciate it. ; I wasn't even thinking about my settings from those sparkles. I'm gonna get a good shot of these squirrels yet!
Yes it does. ; Lots of time and lots of practice... ; I've shot 45,000 frames in the last three years and I am just starting to feel like I can walk up to something and know what settings to use. ; Be patient and you'll get there. I'll pass along a tip from Joe McNally that I use all the time, which is to zero out the camera after every shoot. ; Make it a habit that while you are pulling your images off your cards to change the camera settings back to a known baseline. ; It doesn't matter what they are, just as long as they are the same every time. ; That way the next time you pick up the camera, whether its an hour or a week later, you know what settings you are starting from. ; For example, I set my camera back to Auto WB, 200 ISO, Aperature Priority at f8, 0 EV every time. ;
I am really learning so much from you guys and it is wonderful! ; Thank you for the encouraging words. ; Michael, that is an excellent tip and one I will put into practice immediately. ; It was also a good reminder that patience is a good quality and one I should strive toward. ; It was interesting to me that you took 45,000 shots over three years and are now feeling like you really get it. ; I'm so glad you said that.....it gave me pause. ; I think I need to enjoy the process rather than fight it. ; We probably learn more from our mistakes than we do from our successes, hmm? ; At least it seems that way to me right now.
Exactly! ; Case and point; I have been chasing Mountain Thunder through the hills outside Cumberland for 3 years now and had a lot of trouble with certain shots. ; In a couple of locations like this one: ; Every shot I took would end up very dark (you should have seen the original... it took a lot of processing to brighten it up). ; I would get to the location early enough to take a test shot which looked good, but the shot with the train always ended up dark. ; I tried everything... dialing in +EV, bracketing, etc. ; Then it dawned on me to compare the exif data from the test shot to the one with the train and that's when I found it. ; By leaving the camera in aperture priority, when I had a shot where the headlight was pointed directly at the camera, the extra brightness was causing the camera to badly under expose the shot. ; After screwing it up on half a dozen trips, I finally figured it out. ; The solution was to take a test shot to figure out the exposure for the scene and then switch to manual mode where the camera can't mess it up for me.
So worth it in the end...eh, Mike? ; I love the end result. ; I would love to have been there the moment that photo was taken. ; I plan to chase trains of my own this summer.... Forgive me. ; I'm one of those weird people that relates everything to a song. ; This photo reminded me of another one on my current favorite album. ; Sometimes I think I just need to be...still. Tim McGraw - Still
haha! yes it does get more natural, but never perfected! We all chase after the perfect image every time! and yes, I have tossed the camera back in the bag before and said the hell with this! Why cant I get this picture to expose the way I am seeing it!
Yes, after you've shot dozens of rolls of slides, and finally figured out where in the heck there is a stopping point in the middle of Fantasmic! where you can change rolls (and get 108 shots out of a show!)[nb]Yes I was obsessed. ; Call me Captain Fantasmic!. ; That show is my white whale.[/nb] Cuck-cuck-cuck-cur-r-r-cuck-k-k!
I don't have a good enough emoticon for you today, Rog. Now I have this picture in my head of a very evil squirrel deliberately sabotaging all my shots of him. ; But hey, I'm trying to give them a little good publicity here! ; They are rather cute furry little creatures after all. I'm also crazy about the footnote thing. ; It makes me laugh every time. And, Craig...even you have felt like tossing your camera across the room? ; Ok, now I don't feel nearly so bad. ; lol
Thanks Roni! ; Shooting at that location is always a pretty cool experience. ; I was standing in a cut that's about 20ft deep and only wide enough two sets of tracks[nb]one of which was replaced with a bike trail[/nb]. ; About 200ft behind me is a grade crossing, so when the train is next to where I'm standing they have to blow for the crossing... ; That brought a whole new meaning to loud... ; The sound from the whistle has no place to go, so it just bounces back and forth between the walls of the cut. ; Its so loud that you can literally feel it[nb]Michael now carries a set of ear plugs in his camera bag. ; [/nb]. Steam or boring boxes on wheels diesel?
OK...I'm going to make all skilled photographers with deep pride over their mastery of cameras and belief that all people should only aspire to use a camera their way do a spit-take with their drinks. ; Ready? Consider using P mode. ; (there go the spit-takes). ; Aghast! ; No! Surely not! ; Must use A, S, or Manual only to be a REAL photographer! OK...while true - those modes really do offer the ultimate in user mastery over the camera, if you're at the point where you are still learning, and often losing out on some great shots because you haven't quite reached that level of mastery, P mode can really be an amazing tool, and with far more user control and input than some photogs are even aware of. First and most importantly, if you do nothing to any settings, the camera can perform all of the functions necessary to take the shot correctly, just like in Auto (green box) mode. ; So while you are going through the 'learning' phase, you can make sure you still get the shots. ; But here are some of the reasons P mode is much better than Auto mode, and can also help you learn how to shoot better, and even start using A, S, and M with confidence: 1. You can choose your own white balance setting, ISO setting, focus points, focus mode, and metering area. ; By doing so, you can force P mode to work the way you want it to - staying at a certain ISO, or choosing it...metering off of the wide scene or just the center or spot area...focusing continuously or just once on half press...focusing on a specific focus point or matrix-style...using auto white balance or choosing a preset or even manually setting it yourself. 2. Program Shift is a brilliant tool. ; Most cameras have program shift capability in Program mode. ; Basically, half press to let the camera choose the aperture/shutter combination it deems appropriate for proper exposure. ; Look at the camera's chosen values and decide if you would like to alter the shutter speed faster to avoid blur, or the aperture to control depth of field. ; Simply spin your jog wheel while in P mode, and the camera will change either the shutter or aperture value (which one changes is usually selectable in the menu)...the other value will automatically change as needed to achieve the very same exposure, compensating for your adjustment. ; For example, the camera chooses 1/125 and F10. ; You want shallower depth of field, so you turn the jog wheel to force the aperture down 4 stops and the camera will adjust the shutter speed UP the same number of stops, giving you the very same exposure, but with a more open aperture. 3. By seeing what aperture and shutter combos the camera chooses, and comparing the resultant shot for over or underexposure, or proper exposure, you can get a feel for how your camera responds to various settings, and what aperture settings or shutter speeds you need in given situations. Surprisingly, a skilled photographer can have the same basic level of control using Program mode and program-shifting as needed as they would in A or S mode, and sometimes faster...plus with the extra advantage of letting the camera give you a starting point for proper exposure and adjusting as needed to fine tune. ; You can choose to be lazy, and just walk around casually and spontaneously P&Sing at subjects to get off-the-hip shots knowing the camera will have chosen all the right settings for basic and correct exposure, or you can be more interactive like in S or A mode and make adjustments, monitor settings, and adjust shutter or aperture as needed for action, movement, or depth of field and sharpness.
Michael...well, since you put it that way, definitely steam trains! ; Truthfully, I wasn't sure if I could find one around here so I was planning to take what I could get...but it looks like I might be in luck, according to this page. ; I copied and pasted a section of it for you. ; Apparently, between Syracuse and Tully, I might just catch Steam Locomotive Mikado #142. ; I'm certainly gonna try and find out more! New York, Susquehanna & Western Trains are operated throughout the year by the New York Susquehanna & Western Technical & Historical Society Inc, formed in 1988 to preserve the history of the ‘Susquehanna’ and its ancestor corporations. All proceeds from the trips are used for restoration of passenger cars, the M-1 motorized coach, Steam Locomotive #142, and for educational purposes. Trips are powered by historic locomotives, either steam locomotive Mikado #142 or e-9 Diesels. Passenger equipment consists of coach cars from the 1950s (Long Island RR), deluxe cars from the 1940s (Southern Railway) and a first class dome car (Santa Fe Railroad). Trains travel 44 miles (70km) through attractive countryside over a former Lackawanna Railroad line between Syracuse and Tully, New York, and services operate from Thursday to Sunday between April and December. Mail address: PO Box 121, Rochelle Park, New Jersey 07662; tel: 877 TRAIN RIDE; www.nyswths.org. Amtrak’s Lake Shore Limited stops in Syracuse. Justin...you are so cool. ; When I'm not trying to get dinner on the table for 4 hungry guys, and they are all safely tucked in their beds, I plan to revisit this post. ; So basically, P mode is like the little green box, except it lets you control some things if you choose to? ; Hmm, need to explore that option more....
My $0.02: ; Yes; however there is an algorithm for it. ; I know my camera publishes it (a little chart that shows you where the camera will act for different light levels). ; But not all cameras will allow you to move from that preprogrammed chart!
I'm glad you found one... steam is so much more fun. ; They're our most human creation. ; Each one has her own personality, no two alike. I also found two others you might want to take a look at: Arcade and Attica Railroad: ; http://www.arcadeandatticarr.com/ And a little farther away, the Valley Railroad in Essex, CT: ; http://www.essexsteamtrain.com/steam.html If you're looking for some good inspiration for steam train photos, let me know, I can send you some links.
Yeah, what he said. I still shoot mostly in P mode. Although I've had an SLR of one type or another for over 10 years now, I shoot little enough that my skill ; hasn't increased much over the years. P mode is still my workhorse mode, and I venture into Av or Tv once in a while when I want something special like fireworks or fast motion subjects. I even use Canon's ADEP (Automatic Depth of Field) mode now and then, because it uses all the focus points and adjusts the aperture to give maximum DOF, getting as much of the frame in focus as possible. And it does a better job than I could if I stopped to think about it and set the aperture myself. Now that I've had a digital camera for 7 years, I can easily judge the ISO I need for a particular shot. WB is more difficult, but I'm beginning to get the hang of it (and I find it much easier with my new 50D, because it actually spells out what the WB setting is instead of only using a cryptic icon). Shutter speed isn't too hard to understand, either. All of which leaves Aperture. Aperture is my Everest. Aperture is my Kryptonite. Choosing the wrong aperture, or letting the camera choose it for me, messes up my DOF and my focus more than any other factor. I'm practicing, and I'm learning, but knowing something is not the same as feeling it, and until I can feel it, I won't be able to master it. But until then, I'll be shooting in P mode most of the time. And... loving it.
hulagirl, the important thing as i see it, is never give up, never surrender. not every day is going to be a day of channeling ansel, some days it just will not be there, you can beat on the brain all you want, it just isn't happening. so maybe set the camera down, and come back in a day, some days i can't see the photo in front of me at all, others it's like a zone, i get there, and next thing i know, i've got 40 shots on the card, and i actually like some of them. so it's why i really admire those who can do one of those 365 committments, i can't stick to it but some can